I really love this block. But then I love most of the blocks in this quilt. Jane certainly was an unbelievably creative quilter. Imagine coming up with 225 unique blocks.
Foundation pieced.
Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number and cut out as in the photo.
IMPORTANT: You have to mirror the block diagram.
Software users: Remember to change the block size to 5"x8" before printing.
(Remember you can click on the photos for larger versions.)
Foundation piece all the numbered sections and trim the seam allowances to 1/4". Cut the unnumbered pieces out of fabric as well, remembering to add 1/4" seam allowance.
Assemble the bottom section.
Attach the two side sections to the center "triangle".
Sew the outside triangles to either side.
Assemble the block by sewing the sections together as in the diagram.
Thursday, March 26, 2009
A-9
Did you know that this is block number 102? Somewhere along the line I missed the fact that we've passed the 100 mark! Wow!
I love teenie tiny foundation pieced blocks.
Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper.
IMPORTANT: You have to mirror the diagram for the log cabin section to turn out correctly.
Number and cut out as in the photo. (If you can't seen the numbering, just click on the photo for a larger version.)
Foundation piece the five sections. Trim their seam allowances to 1/4".
Sew the top and bottom sections to the center section. Sew the side sections to the resulting piece.
Voila!
I love teenie tiny foundation pieced blocks.
Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper.
IMPORTANT: You have to mirror the diagram for the log cabin section to turn out correctly.
Number and cut out as in the photo. (If you can't seen the numbering, just click on the photo for a larger version.)
Foundation piece the five sections. Trim their seam allowances to 1/4".
Sew the top and bottom sections to the center section. Sew the side sections to the resulting piece.
Voila!
Thursday, March 19, 2009
H-12
My sewing machine is all packed up to go to retreat, so we have a "no sew" block today.
Please note that this block is quite different from the one in the original quilt. Jane actually appliqued 8 teardrops and made them look like 4 hearts.
The block is all applique and I'm using freezer paper for this.
Print or trace the block diagram onto freezer paper and cut out the hearts, leaving the rest of the freezer paper as intact as you can.
Cut a 6" x 6" square out of background fabric and iron the "background" freezer paper section onto the right side.
Iron the four hearts to the right side of main block fabric and cut out, leaving a seam allowance all around for turning under when doing the applique.
Using a disappearing or washable marker, mark the position of the hearts on the background fabric. Use the freezer paper "template" for this.
Remove the freezer paper from the background square. You will now have markings to help you position your applique. If the markings disappear before you're done, you can always use the freezer paper to remark the block.
Using the markings as a guide, position one of the hearts on the background square and baste securely.
Applique the heart to the square, turning under the edges as you go.
Remove the freezer paper and press.
Applique the other three hearts using the same technique.
Trim the block to 5" square. If you want, you can iron the freezer paper template back onto the block and trim 1/4" away from the edges.
There will be no block on Monday, since I'll be away at retreat. A good opportunity to catch up if you're behind or just take a little break if you're up to date.
Please note that this block is quite different from the one in the original quilt. Jane actually appliqued 8 teardrops and made them look like 4 hearts.
The block is all applique and I'm using freezer paper for this.
Print or trace the block diagram onto freezer paper and cut out the hearts, leaving the rest of the freezer paper as intact as you can.
Cut a 6" x 6" square out of background fabric and iron the "background" freezer paper section onto the right side.
Iron the four hearts to the right side of main block fabric and cut out, leaving a seam allowance all around for turning under when doing the applique.
Using a disappearing or washable marker, mark the position of the hearts on the background fabric. Use the freezer paper "template" for this.
Remove the freezer paper from the background square. You will now have markings to help you position your applique. If the markings disappear before you're done, you can always use the freezer paper to remark the block.
Using the markings as a guide, position one of the hearts on the background square and baste securely.
Applique the heart to the square, turning under the edges as you go.
Remove the freezer paper and press.
Applique the other three hearts using the same technique.
Trim the block to 5" square. If you want, you can iron the freezer paper template back onto the block and trim 1/4" away from the edges.
There will be no block on Monday, since I'll be away at retreat. A good opportunity to catch up if you're behind or just take a little break if you're up to date.
Monday, March 16, 2009
G-5
Foundation pieced and appliqued.
Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper and extend the lines as in the photo.
Number and cut out as below.
Foundation piece the two sections and trim the seam allowances to 1/4".
Sew the sections together.
Applique the center shape onto the block.
I used the "freezer paper on top" method:
Trace or print the center shape onto the dull side of freezer paper and cut out.
Using a warm, dry iron, iron the shape onto the right side of your background fabric and cut out, leaving a 1/4" seam allowance all around. Clip the inside corners.
Baste this in place on the block.
Applique, turning the seam allowances under as you go.
Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper and extend the lines as in the photo.
Number and cut out as below.
Foundation piece the two sections and trim the seam allowances to 1/4".
Sew the sections together.
Applique the center shape onto the block.
I used the "freezer paper on top" method:
Trace or print the center shape onto the dull side of freezer paper and cut out.
Using a warm, dry iron, iron the shape onto the right side of your background fabric and cut out, leaving a 1/4" seam allowance all around. Clip the inside corners.
Baste this in place on the block.
Applique, turning the seam allowances under as you go.
Thursday, March 12, 2009
TR-8
This took quite a bit longer than expected.
I apologize for the quality of the photos. The light was very strange today.
So here's what I did:
Print or trace the block diagram onto freezer paper and cut out all the shapes that will be in the main block fabric. Cut carefully so that your piece of freezer paper doesn't fall apart. Keep the bottom scalloped section to use later.
Iron the freezer paper pattern onto the right side of a piece of background fabric large enough to cut down to the block size with seam allowances later.
Cut the bottom scalloped section out of the fabric, leaving a seam allowance for turning under when appliqueing. Clip the curves.
Cut a piece of main block fabric the same size or a little larger than the background fabric.
Lay this on the table right side up. Lay the background fabric section on top. Baste through all the layers around the edges of the block to stop fabric shifting.
Baste along the scalloped edge, leaving enough room between the basting and the edge to turn under the seam.
Applique along the scalloped edge, turning under the seam allowance as you go.
Cut the large diamond out of only the background fabric, being careful not to cut the main fabric layer. Leave a seam allowance all around (about 1/8" to 1/4").
Baste along the edge to secure the fabric layers, leaving enough room to turn under the seam allowance when you applique.
Applique the large diamond by turning under the seam allowance as you go and clipping the sharp corners.
Use the same technique to reverse applique the small bottom diamonds.
Applique the small top diamond in the same way.
Iron the scalloped section of freezer paper you saved back in position on the block to help you trim the block accurately.
Trim around the block, leaving 1/4" seam allowance. Also cut off the little top diagonal section 1/4" above the seam line.
Cut a small piece of background fabric with at least one straight edge. Line this up with the top diagonal edge of the block and sew the 1/4" seam. Press open. Trim the top of the block back into shape. This was easier for me than trying to make a teenie little pattern for the top section.
Remove the freezer paper and basting.
(I mirrored my diagram because I thought I was going to foundation piece the top so it's the wrong way round. There's NO way I'm redoing it.)
I apologize for the quality of the photos. The light was very strange today.
So here's what I did:
Print or trace the block diagram onto freezer paper and cut out all the shapes that will be in the main block fabric. Cut carefully so that your piece of freezer paper doesn't fall apart. Keep the bottom scalloped section to use later.
Iron the freezer paper pattern onto the right side of a piece of background fabric large enough to cut down to the block size with seam allowances later.
Cut the bottom scalloped section out of the fabric, leaving a seam allowance for turning under when appliqueing. Clip the curves.
Cut a piece of main block fabric the same size or a little larger than the background fabric.
Lay this on the table right side up. Lay the background fabric section on top. Baste through all the layers around the edges of the block to stop fabric shifting.
Baste along the scalloped edge, leaving enough room between the basting and the edge to turn under the seam.
Applique along the scalloped edge, turning under the seam allowance as you go.
Cut the large diamond out of only the background fabric, being careful not to cut the main fabric layer. Leave a seam allowance all around (about 1/8" to 1/4").
Baste along the edge to secure the fabric layers, leaving enough room to turn under the seam allowance when you applique.
Applique the large diamond by turning under the seam allowance as you go and clipping the sharp corners.
Use the same technique to reverse applique the small bottom diamonds.
Applique the small top diamond in the same way.
Iron the scalloped section of freezer paper you saved back in position on the block to help you trim the block accurately.
Trim around the block, leaving 1/4" seam allowance. Also cut off the little top diagonal section 1/4" above the seam line.
Cut a small piece of background fabric with at least one straight edge. Line this up with the top diagonal edge of the block and sew the 1/4" seam. Press open. Trim the top of the block back into shape. This was easier for me than trying to make a teenie little pattern for the top section.
Remove the freezer paper and basting.
(I mirrored my diagram because I thought I was going to foundation piece the top so it's the wrong way round. There's NO way I'm redoing it.)
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
E-3
Today I needed something simple - and pink. And not foundation pieced. I hope you don't mind.
Out of background fabric, cut:
two squares 1 3/4" x 1 3/4"
two squares 2 1/4" x 2 1/4"
four rectangles 1 3/8" x 3 1/4"
Out of main block fabric, cut:
two squares 1 3/4" x 1 3/4"
two squares 2 1/4" x 2 1/4"
Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on the wrong side of each background fabric square.
Place each main fabric square right sides together with a matching background fabric square and stitch a 1/4" seam on each side of the drawn line.
Cut each resulting section along the drawn line and press open.
Referring to the block diagram lay your block sections out on the table. This will help you sew them together correctly.
Sew a small half square triangle to each short side of two of the background fabric rectangles.
Sew the larger half square triangles together in pairs, referring to the block diagram.
Sew the half square triangle pairs together to form a pinwheel.
Sew a background fabric rectangle to each side of the pinwheel.
Sew the remaining sections to the top and bottom of the block.
Out of background fabric, cut:
two squares 1 3/4" x 1 3/4"
two squares 2 1/4" x 2 1/4"
four rectangles 1 3/8" x 3 1/4"
Out of main block fabric, cut:
two squares 1 3/4" x 1 3/4"
two squares 2 1/4" x 2 1/4"
Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on the wrong side of each background fabric square.
Place each main fabric square right sides together with a matching background fabric square and stitch a 1/4" seam on each side of the drawn line.
Cut each resulting section along the drawn line and press open.
Referring to the block diagram lay your block sections out on the table. This will help you sew them together correctly.
Sew a small half square triangle to each short side of two of the background fabric rectangles.
Sew the larger half square triangles together in pairs, referring to the block diagram.
Sew the half square triangle pairs together to form a pinwheel.
Sew a background fabric rectangle to each side of the pinwheel.
Sew the remaining sections to the top and bottom of the block.
Monday, March 9, 2009
Back from death's door
That's what it feels like anyway.
There will be a new block tomorrow.
This weekend I was a little swamped catching up on the Rainbow Jane kits, which are normally ready WAY in advance, but got seriously waylayed by the flu.
There will be a new block tomorrow.
This weekend I was a little swamped catching up on the Rainbow Jane kits, which are normally ready WAY in advance, but got seriously waylayed by the flu.
Wednesday, March 4, 2009
Monday, March 2, 2009
H-10
For this block I decided not to foundation piece everything because it didn't make much sense. It was fun to actually sew something the regular way.
Out of background fabric, cut two squares 3" x 3".
Out of main fabric, cut two squares 3" x 3".
Draw a diagonal line corner to corner on the back of each background fabric square.
Put a background fabric square and a main fabric square together right sides together and stitch a seam ¼" away on each side of the line you drew. Repeat for the other pair of squares.
Cut apart on the drawn line.
Press each little square open.
Cut each square in two on the diagonal.
Match the triangles up in pairs so that a background and main fabric section line up with each other and sew them together to give you four little "hourglass" blocks.
Trim each of these blocks to 1 ½" exactly.
Out of background fabric, cut two strips 1 ½" x 3" and sew the little hourglass squares to these as in the photo.
Now we'll get our dose of foundation piecing.
Trace or print the block diagram onto foundation paper.
Cut out the center section and number as below. Make sure that you cut this section out orientated correctly or your "hourglasses" will be on their sides. (Trust me.)
Foundation piece the two sections and trim their seam allowances to ¼".
Sew the sections together.
Attach the top and bottom strips you made earlier.
Out of background fabric, cut two squares 3" x 3".
Out of main fabric, cut two squares 3" x 3".
Draw a diagonal line corner to corner on the back of each background fabric square.
Put a background fabric square and a main fabric square together right sides together and stitch a seam ¼" away on each side of the line you drew. Repeat for the other pair of squares.
Cut apart on the drawn line.
Press each little square open.
Cut each square in two on the diagonal.
Match the triangles up in pairs so that a background and main fabric section line up with each other and sew them together to give you four little "hourglass" blocks.
Trim each of these blocks to 1 ½" exactly.
Out of background fabric, cut two strips 1 ½" x 3" and sew the little hourglass squares to these as in the photo.
Now we'll get our dose of foundation piecing.
Trace or print the block diagram onto foundation paper.
Cut out the center section and number as below. Make sure that you cut this section out orientated correctly or your "hourglasses" will be on their sides. (Trust me.)
Foundation piece the two sections and trim their seam allowances to ¼".
Sew the sections together.
Attach the top and bottom strips you made earlier.
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