So this coming week, take a load off, relax, get ready for the final push to halfway.
Friday, April 24, 2009
Take a break
Jo (that's my sewing machine) is off to the sewing machine doctor for her annual checkup.
So this coming week, take a load off, relax, get ready for the final push to halfway.
So this coming week, take a load off, relax, get ready for the final push to halfway.
Thursday, April 23, 2009
A-13
This block drove me up the walls! It certainly made me see the advantages of hand piecing. If Jane had had a sewing machine this quilt would NEVER have happened.
So here's what I ended up doing after many unsuccessful attempts at "real" piecing.
Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as in the photo.
Foundation piece all the numbered sections and trim their seam allowances to 1/4".
Assemble the center section of the block.
Sew the four outside sections together as in the photo. Stop sewing the seams on the four inside corners 1/4" before the edge of the fabric.
Lay the center block section right side up on the table. Lay the "frame" section on top, carefully placing it into position. Leaving the foundation paper on at this point will help with placement. Baste into position making sure you leave room to turn under the seam allowance. This is going to be very close to the edge of the fabric.
Applique the two sections together.
I think this is my new motto: When all else fails, applique.
So here's what I ended up doing after many unsuccessful attempts at "real" piecing.
Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as in the photo.
Foundation piece all the numbered sections and trim their seam allowances to 1/4".
Assemble the center section of the block.
Sew the four outside sections together as in the photo. Stop sewing the seams on the four inside corners 1/4" before the edge of the fabric.
Lay the center block section right side up on the table. Lay the "frame" section on top, carefully placing it into position. Leaving the foundation paper on at this point will help with placement. Baste into position making sure you leave room to turn under the seam allowance. This is going to be very close to the edge of the fabric.
Applique the two sections together.
I think this is my new motto: When all else fails, applique.
Tuesday, April 21, 2009
A-12
I'm really planning to get back on the Monday-Thursday schedule. Really.
Another block with teenie pieces. What is it with row A?
Foundation pieced.
Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number and cut out as in the photo.
Foundation piece all the numbered sections and trim their seam allowances to 1/4". Cut the unnumbered triangles out of fabric, remembering to add 1/4" seam allowance to them as well. I ironed them onto freezer paper to stabilize them and make it easier to cut the seam allowance.
Assemble the 3-section side strips.
Sew them to the center strip.
Sew on the side triangles one by one, following the diagram.
Another block with teenie pieces. What is it with row A?
Foundation pieced.
Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number and cut out as in the photo.
Foundation piece all the numbered sections and trim their seam allowances to 1/4". Cut the unnumbered triangles out of fabric, remembering to add 1/4" seam allowance to them as well. I ironed them onto freezer paper to stabilize them and make it easier to cut the seam allowance.
Assemble the 3-section side strips.
Sew them to the center strip.
Sew on the side triangles one by one, following the diagram.
Sunday, April 19, 2009
A-11
And you thought I was lying when I said there would be two blocks this week.
I had a lot of trouble getting the little block pieces to lay flat so I could photograph them, so I apologize in advance.
This was a tough block. The sections are very small. Mine is a little wonky.
Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number and cut out as in the photo.
Foundation piece all the numbered sections and trim their seam allowances to 1/4". Cut the unnumbered sections out of fabric, remembering to add 1/4" seam allowance to them as well.
Assemble the center block section.
Attach the small rectangles as in the photo.
At this point I had the full intention of sewing set in seams because I could not think of any other way to make this block. That, however, proved very hard to impossible to do by machine because the sections are so little.
So here's what I did:
Place a square main fabric piece top of the block, right sides together as in the photo and sew the seam as shown. Stop sewing 1/4" from the edge.
Press the section open and then fold back.
Fold 1/4" seam on the next side of the square and press.
Fold the square over and applique in place along the folded edge.
Repeat on the other three corners.
Attach the outside border log cabin style, following the diagram.
My block is not quite as wonky as it looks in the photo. It just wouldn't lay flat.
I had a lot of trouble getting the little block pieces to lay flat so I could photograph them, so I apologize in advance.
This was a tough block. The sections are very small. Mine is a little wonky.
Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number and cut out as in the photo.
Foundation piece all the numbered sections and trim their seam allowances to 1/4". Cut the unnumbered sections out of fabric, remembering to add 1/4" seam allowance to them as well.
Assemble the center block section.
Attach the small rectangles as in the photo.
At this point I had the full intention of sewing set in seams because I could not think of any other way to make this block. That, however, proved very hard to impossible to do by machine because the sections are so little.
So here's what I did:
Place a square main fabric piece top of the block, right sides together as in the photo and sew the seam as shown. Stop sewing 1/4" from the edge.
Press the section open and then fold back.
Fold 1/4" seam on the next side of the square and press.
Fold the square over and applique in place along the folded edge.
Repeat on the other three corners.
Attach the outside border log cabin style, following the diagram.
My block is not quite as wonky as it looks in the photo. It just wouldn't lay flat.
Wednesday, April 15, 2009
C-11
We're only six blocks away from completing the top three-row section of the quilt (and the halfway point!), so I figured we should go for it! (And there will be a giveaway when we get there, so start catching up OK?)
This, according to the people who know over at dearjane.com, is one of the hard blocks. But, of course, they piece. I applique. Easy peasy!
Print or trace the block diagram onto the dull side of freezer paper and cut out the little "bone shaped" sections.
Out of background fabric cut four squares 3" x 3".
Out of main block fabric cut four squares 3" x 3"
Out of main block fabric, cut:
One rectangle 7/8" x 4 1/4"
Two rectangles 7/8" x 4 5/8"
One rectangle 7/8" x 5"
Iron the cut out shapes onto the right side of the background fabric squares, centering them as much as you can.
Cut out along the curved edges leaving about a 1/4" seam allowance. Clip the curved fabric edges almost, but not quite to the freezer paper edge, every 1/4".
Place a main fabric square right side up on the table.
Place a background fabric section right side up on top of it, lining up the straight edges of the fabric. Baste through all layers. Stay far enough away from the freezer paper for the seam allowance to be turned under. Repeat for all four squares.
Applique along the curved edges, turning the seam allowance under as you go.
Press, then trim the squares to 2 3/8" x 2 3/8" each, using the freezer paper straight edges as your guide. If you cut 1/4" away from the straight edges you will end up with a 2 3/8" square.
You can remove the freezer paper at this point, but I left it on to help stabilize th squares while I sewed them together.
Following the block diagram, sew the four squares together using 1/4" seams, carefully lining up the seams and applique edges.
Remove the freezer paper if you haven't already done so.
Following the block diagram sew the four main fabric rectangles to the block log cabin style, starting with the shortest one.
(In both the book and the software there are seams in the center of these borders but from what I can see, Jane's block doesn't have these. If you have a better view and Jane did put seams there, let me know and I'll amend the instructions.)
This, according to the people who know over at dearjane.com, is one of the hard blocks. But, of course, they piece. I applique. Easy peasy!
Print or trace the block diagram onto the dull side of freezer paper and cut out the little "bone shaped" sections.
Out of background fabric cut four squares 3" x 3".
Out of main block fabric cut four squares 3" x 3"
Out of main block fabric, cut:
One rectangle 7/8" x 4 1/4"
Two rectangles 7/8" x 4 5/8"
One rectangle 7/8" x 5"
Iron the cut out shapes onto the right side of the background fabric squares, centering them as much as you can.
Cut out along the curved edges leaving about a 1/4" seam allowance. Clip the curved fabric edges almost, but not quite to the freezer paper edge, every 1/4".
Place a main fabric square right side up on the table.
Place a background fabric section right side up on top of it, lining up the straight edges of the fabric. Baste through all layers. Stay far enough away from the freezer paper for the seam allowance to be turned under. Repeat for all four squares.
Applique along the curved edges, turning the seam allowance under as you go.
Press, then trim the squares to 2 3/8" x 2 3/8" each, using the freezer paper straight edges as your guide. If you cut 1/4" away from the straight edges you will end up with a 2 3/8" square.
You can remove the freezer paper at this point, but I left it on to help stabilize th squares while I sewed them together.
Following the block diagram, sew the four squares together using 1/4" seams, carefully lining up the seams and applique edges.
Remove the freezer paper if you haven't already done so.
Following the block diagram sew the four main fabric rectangles to the block log cabin style, starting with the shortest one.
(In both the book and the software there are seams in the center of these borders but from what I can see, Jane's block doesn't have these. If you have a better view and Jane did put seams there, let me know and I'll amend the instructions.)
Tuesday, April 14, 2009
I "spaced"
It's a little crazy around here, but what's new?
I COMPLETELY spaced on yesterday's block.
There WILL be two blocks this week, I promise.
I COMPLETELY spaced on yesterday's block.
There WILL be two blocks this week, I promise.
Thursday, April 9, 2009
TR-9
It's still Thursday right?
Trace or print the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as in the photo.
Important!You have to mirror the diagram.
If you're using the software, remember to change the block size to 5" x 8" before printing.
Foundation piece all the sections and trim seam allowances to 1/4".
Sew the top two sections together.
Now, this is going to sound strange, but bear with me.
If you don't mind the seam in the middle, you can leave this section as is, but if you do...
Using a sharp seam ripper (I know you have one!), carefully remove the center (main fabric) section. Be careful to only rip out the stitches attaching the center to the rest, keeping the side, top, and bottom seams intact.
When you've removed the center piece, reinforce the side seams by stitching them again.
Cut a 2" x 3" piece of main block fabric and lay it right side up on the table.
Lay the block section right side up on top of it, making sure that the diamond shaped hole completely covers the main block fabric.
Baste close to the edge all around the diamond. You don't have to worry about staying away from the edge since your seam allowance is already turned under.
Use an applique stitch to attach the block section to the main fabric rectangle.
Trim away excess fabric and remove the basting.
Trace or print the block diagram again, this time onto the dull side of freezer paper. Cut out the top and bottom block sections. If you were using freezer paper for your foundation piecing, carefully remove it from the back and use it again.
Carefully position the freezer paper sections onto the right side of your pieced sections and iron in place.
Cut a 3 1/2" x 3 1/2" square out of main block fabric and lay it right side up on the table.
Remove some of the bulk fabric from the center seam of the block section and clip the seam allowance almost to the freezer paper.
Place the bottom block section right side up on top of the fabric square, making sure that the seam allowance on the top of the block section covers the fabric square completely.
Baste securely through all layers, staying far enough away from the freezer paper edge to allow for the seam to be turned under.
Reverse applique along the top edge of the block section. This will form the bottom left and right edges of the center diamond.
I completely forgot to take photos here, so I'm inserting a diagram from the Rainbow Jane BOM.
Follow the same steps for the top block section, i.e. trim and clip the seam allowance at the center seam, baste and reverse applique.
Trim away the excess fabric, remove the freezer paper and press.
Trace or print the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as in the photo.
Important!You have to mirror the diagram.
If you're using the software, remember to change the block size to 5" x 8" before printing.
Foundation piece all the sections and trim seam allowances to 1/4".
Sew the top two sections together.
Now, this is going to sound strange, but bear with me.
If you don't mind the seam in the middle, you can leave this section as is, but if you do...
Using a sharp seam ripper (I know you have one!), carefully remove the center (main fabric) section. Be careful to only rip out the stitches attaching the center to the rest, keeping the side, top, and bottom seams intact.
When you've removed the center piece, reinforce the side seams by stitching them again.
Cut a 2" x 3" piece of main block fabric and lay it right side up on the table.
Lay the block section right side up on top of it, making sure that the diamond shaped hole completely covers the main block fabric.
Baste close to the edge all around the diamond. You don't have to worry about staying away from the edge since your seam allowance is already turned under.
Use an applique stitch to attach the block section to the main fabric rectangle.
Trim away excess fabric and remove the basting.
Trace or print the block diagram again, this time onto the dull side of freezer paper. Cut out the top and bottom block sections. If you were using freezer paper for your foundation piecing, carefully remove it from the back and use it again.
Carefully position the freezer paper sections onto the right side of your pieced sections and iron in place.
Cut a 3 1/2" x 3 1/2" square out of main block fabric and lay it right side up on the table.
Remove some of the bulk fabric from the center seam of the block section and clip the seam allowance almost to the freezer paper.
Place the bottom block section right side up on top of the fabric square, making sure that the seam allowance on the top of the block section covers the fabric square completely.
Baste securely through all layers, staying far enough away from the freezer paper edge to allow for the seam to be turned under.
Reverse applique along the top edge of the block section. This will form the bottom left and right edges of the center diamond.
I completely forgot to take photos here, so I'm inserting a diagram from the Rainbow Jane BOM.
Follow the same steps for the top block section, i.e. trim and clip the seam allowance at the center seam, baste and reverse applique.
Trim away the excess fabric, remove the freezer paper and press.
Monday, April 6, 2009
M-2
An easy one.
Foundation pieced.
Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as in the photo.
Foundation piece the numbered sections and trim seam allowances to 1/4". Cut the unnumbered sections out of background fabric, remembering to add the seam allowance here as well.
Sew the three center sections together.
Attach the unnumbered top and bottom sections.
Sew on the side sections.
Foundation pieced.
Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as in the photo.
Foundation piece the numbered sections and trim seam allowances to 1/4". Cut the unnumbered sections out of background fabric, remembering to add the seam allowance here as well.
Sew the three center sections together.
Attach the unnumbered top and bottom sections.
Sew on the side sections.
Thursday, April 2, 2009
C-10
A while ago Robin sent me a whole stack of lovely fabrics for this quilt. This is one of them. Thanks Robin!
Lots of little pieces.
Foundation pieced.
Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as in the photo.
(Remember, you can click on the photo to get a larger version.)
Foundation piece each section and trim the seam allowances to 1/4".
Assemble the block section by section.
1:
2:
3:
And 4:
Lots of little pieces.
Foundation pieced.
Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as in the photo.
(Remember, you can click on the photo to get a larger version.)
Foundation piece each section and trim the seam allowances to 1/4".
Assemble the block section by section.
1:
2:
3:
And 4:
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